| Dec |
| 22 |
By Lonnie R. Cross, Owner of College Formals & Laura’s Bridal.
Despite what your mother tells you, not every tux on the rack was designed to make you look dapper. In fact, some cuts are just downright unforgiving. But, there is a style out there to flatter every masculine frame. So check out this tuxedo rundown, to find out which one will fit you best.
Double Breasted. Short, stout guys used to be told to steer clear of these boxy jackets. In fact, a double-breasted jacket can tastefully camouflage a generously sized groom—especially now that shaped double-breasted jackets are in the limelight. "In the right size and the right cut," says Bernard Toll, spokesperson for Lord West Formalwear, "a double-breasted jacket can be a wonderful way to hide some things you don’t want to show"—like a beer belly.
Single Breasted: one-or two-button. This classic tux jacket will look great on nearly every body shape. Go for a two-button if you’re tall, and a one-button if you’re on the shorter side. The reason? It’s a matter of proportion: the more shirt that shows, the longer the visual line, making the man who’s wearing it appear taller. Generally speaking, the higher the buttons (and this goes for vests as well) the taller and narrower the guy should be.
Single Breasted: three-or four-button. The unbroken line and slim fit of the ultra-popular, high-buttoning jacket looks terrific on tall men who are on the slim side. But if you’re barrel-chested or pudgy, you might look like you’ve been inside it.
Cutaway. The traditional morning coat, with its swallowtail lines, looks good on just about any frame. "As a matter of fact, the cutaway creates a look of height on short men," says Toll.
Tails. The severe break between the front and back of this highly formal tuxedo can be very unflattering on short or round men. But, with the right body proportion, i.e. long legs, a shorter man can pull it off.
High Vest. Like the high-buttoning coat, a high vest works better on guys who aren’t chunky or broad in the upper torso. But if you’re set on this look, choose a vest in a muted color. If you’re really fit, on the other hand, you can go for broke with colors and patterns, says Toll. "Anything that will give you an opportunity to express your individuality."
Low Vest. Low vests work well on any body type, but generally you should make the same color/girth decisions you would for a higher vest (see above), says Toll. The danger of a very low vest is that it can sometimes look like a belly sling.
Peaked Lapel. For a shorter man, a peaked tuxedo lapel is a godsend. It’ll make the body look longer, since it draws the eyes up and out. But it looks good on tall men too.
Shawl Collar. Depending on the width of the collar itself, shawl collars can be tricky. Be careful of the proportion: a narrow collar can make a wide body look even broader—but that can be offset by the vertical line of the jacket. The point here? Trust your eye, or the eye of the representative at your tux shop.
Mandarin/Banded Collar. If you have a thick, short or heavy neck, the banded collar just won’t work—it’ll look like it’s choking you. (The same goes for the wing collar.) Try a lay-down collar instead.
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